Helpful video reference. The video above is "How to Prepare Interior Woodwork for Painting | Wickes" from Wickes. It is a practical walk-through of the technique, worth watching for the hand movement rather than just reading about it.
Assess the surface
Bare timber needs sanding, knotting and priming. Previously painted woodwork needs any flaking paint scraped back to sound edges and the rest keyed. Run a hand along the surface: anything you can feel, you will see once paint goes on.
In houses built before the 1960s, old paint can contain lead. Wet sand it, keep dust to a minimum and wipe up with damp cloths. Do not dry sand or burn it off.
Sand with the grain
Start with a medium grit paper to level rough areas, then move to a finer grit for a smooth feel. Always work along the grain, because cross-grain scratches show through a gloss or satin finish.
Wrap the paper round a block on flat areas so you do not dish the surface, and use a sanding sponge in mouldings. Soften sharp edges slightly so paint does not pull thin and chip.
Fill and knot
Fill holes and cracks with a wood filler, let it set, and sand flush. Dab knotting solution on any knots, which can bleed resin through paint, and let it dry as directed.
Use a flexible filler for joints that move, such as where frames meet walls, and a harder filler for dents in flat panels.
Dust off
Vacuum the surface and wipe with a lint-free cloth or tack cloth. Dust trapped under primer creates a gritty finish that is hard to correct, and fine dust in corners will lift into your brush as you paint.
Prime and lightly rub back
Apply a wood primer or primer-undercoat suited to your topcoat in a thin, even layer. Let it dry for the time on the tin, then rub lightly with fine paper to remove nibs and wipe clean before topcoating.
Bare end grain soaks up primer, so give it a second coat. That is where moisture gets in and where paint fails first.
What this means in Folkestone
Older Folkestone woodwork, such as staircases and panelled doors in Victorian villas on the Leas and Bayle, and sash windows and shutters in Georgian old-town houses, may have many layers of paint and local repairs. Check for lead before sanding anything from that era. Salt-laden coastal air can make timber take on moisture, so make sure wood is dry before you prime it.
Common mistakes to avoid
- Dry sanding old paint without thinking about lead.
- Skipping knotting so resin shows through the finish.
- Priming over dust and then wondering why the topcoat feels rough.
- Sanding across the grain, leaving scratches that show through the topcoat.
Quick answers
Do I need to prime already-painted wood?
Only where you have exposed bare patches or filler. Sound painted areas just need cleaning and keying.
What grit should I finish with?
A fine grade, around 180 to 240, is typical for a smooth paint-ready surface.
Can I prime and paint in one go?
No. Let the primer dry for the time on the tin and rub it back lightly first, or the topcoat will sit on a rough, tacky layer.
Prefer we do it?
Room painting from £325, standard trade paint and labour included. See our price guide, our interior decorating page or get a fixed quote.